tramping new zealand

6° C in the tent on waking up and a sprinkling of new snow down to about 1000 m.

When I went to fill up my water container for breakfast down at the lake, the view up the valley, past the head of the lake, was superb; Mount Cook and Tasman were quite clearly visible. Later, the sun beamed on them, then, shortly thereafter, it all clagged in.

The wind had dropped right away during the night, but so had the temperature.

I started walking up the hill with my five layers and two beanies on and didn’t start to peel until the 10 km mark. It was a gravel road with a gradual incline that I could charge up at normal walking pace, just stopping for an occasional photo of the magnificence, all that fast-disappearing snow.

Stopped for an early lunch at the Telephone Hut, a fine, albeit windowless, structure with two decent bunks and graffiti on the timber lining going back to the 1930s.

Just as I left, I looked back down the track and could make out a couple of figures, dots, heading this way, the elusive Swiss couple perhaps, but I wasn’t waiting around. I’ve finally worked out that I needed to resupply today in Tekapo, and it was Waitangi Day, New Zealand’s national holiday, so maybe the supermarket shut early.

Not far away, I could see an entire posse heading my way, four guys travelling together, time for a 20-minute break, the guys interested in what was to come, and their own adventures, high spirits, lots of fun, but I was on my way again.

After another few kilometres, I ran into an older New Zealand couple and this time we settled in for a good chat. Everyone today had come from Cape Reinga, but these two had clearly more affinity and warmth. They had followed the official route, which is rare; many take shortcuts when they shouldn’t or take the easy path, but not these two. They suggested that I turn around and walk back, but, well, that’s life, the best bits all too brief.

I suggested that today marked the halfway point of the South Island, in terms of distance, but they corrected me; it’s actually crossing Camp Creek tomorrow. They also said the temperature would be 25° C tomorrow, double today’s best effort, with the wind swinging around from the current SWer to a NWer, Canterbury’s warmest wind.

Peter worked out that they had taken nine days from Arthurs Pass to Tekapo, and they were surprised it had been so short. That gave me a good indication of how much food to load on board, somewhat less than 14 days I’ve been guessing I’d need.

Without the trail notes, it’s impossible to determine the times, but I picked up many of the maps I need at Telephone Hut. For someone who is a list maker and a planner in general, this is probably the least organised of any of my recent tramps, but what the hell, I’m surviving well enough.

The campsite at Tekapo was located at the wrong end of town, 2 km before the supermarket, so I decided to continue, spotting a suitable forest area to pitch the tent.

Me? Antisocial?

I guess you could say that.

The clouds are almost gone. Two other TA walkers I met said Camp Stream Hut had 20 cm of snow around it this morning, but by the time I make it tomorrow evening, that will be gone.

It’s good weather, finally, at least for the next two days.