tramping new zealand

The snow season had begun, being midwinter, with the ensuing tsunami of enthusiasts flocking to the ski slopes, and boosting accommodation rates in Queenstown and Wānaka. No chance of cheap accommodation around there.

I was therefore thinking of engaging in a quick round of tourism elsewhere. I’ve stayed in Te Anau a few times in recent years and thought it would be a good base for a couple of days.

Actually, I was planning on another short hike. You can catch a water taxi across the lower reaches of Lake Manapouri to a short two-hut circuit in Fiordland. Excellent idea.

Both water taxis, however, were taking a winter break, so that was ruled out. I considered Lake Monowai, one of my favourite areas due to the lovely tracks, little climbing involved, and a dearth of hut companions. But my leg clearly wasn’t up to that.

I could have a day trip to Milford. That would have to suffice.

But first, I could fill in one blank on my experience of the South Island. Lake Hauroko.

To make a speedy getaway, I didn’t go to one of those marvellous breakfasts prepared by one of my favourite South Island cafes: The Batch Cafe. Two mornings out of three would suffice.

Unfortunately, the cafe I had in mind in Riverton was closed on a Tuesday. Another was closed for the winter. I wandered around bereft until I found something open. But they weren’t making breakfast, although they would fix me a coffee. Looked like I’d have to survive off what I could find in Otautau.

The road out to Lake Hauroko had a few kilometres of gravel, but I thought it was time to explore the other end of the track, over to Lake Poteriteri, where the Waitutu River flows.

Hauroko is drained by the Wairaurāhiri River. At the other end is the start of the Dusky Track. I wandered around a 40-minute loop track for tourists. Stood on the jetty for a long period of contemplation, staring over to the vastness of Fiordland.

It was worth the diversion.

So, just before dark, I arrived in Te Anau.

I had camped at the motor camp near the DOC office in the past. With the cool weather, I opted for a single room with shared facilities for $60 a night this time. It was surprising to find a newly renovated room once again, with an excellent bed and snappy Wi-Fi.

Really feeling like a tourist now.