Few people venture into the western side of Nelson Lakes National Park. The Matakitaki River is the widest and longest in the park and leads up to iconic Bobs and East Matakitaki Huts.
Even fewer tackle the unnamed range on the west side of the Matakitaki.
This adventurous loop, only for super experienced trail finders, takes you to two seldom visited huts, linked by an exposed ridge that ventures above 2000 m for some astounding views in all directions, including a close inspection of the results of the Alpine Fault activity.
Other features:
The 1905 semi-restored Downie Hut, an old musterers’ hut complete with 1930s graffiti from government hunters;
Old gold mining workings from 1870s and 1930s, halfway up Burn Creek;
One of the most compact NZFS huts in near original condition, ie, it was restored in February 2024 while keeping much of the character. That’s Burn Creek Bivvy;
And one of the best sited small huts in the park, Nardoo, with its surrounding cliffs and adjacent tarns.
You are almost guaranteed to see deer and/or chamois.
Camp by an alpine tarn.
Plenty to like.
But! You need to read the warnings.
Trampers were writing in the hut book back in 1991 about the poor state of the track. It has more recently been remarked and recut in Burn Creek, although recent floods in Nardoo Creek have smashed out some track, and left plenty of uprooted trees in the riverbed.
The alpine section has a number of moments of peril for those who are unaccustomed to heights. It’s fully exposed up top to the vagaries of the weather, as is the creek travel sections where numerous creek crossings are required.
So, only for the experienced who are looking for a significant physical and mental challenge that will truly test their skills.
You were warned.
The only easy part of the circuit is from the car park to Downie Hut.
where | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
A loop around from the DOC Matakitaki River valley carpark, up the Matakitaki River valley to Burn Creek then over Emily Peaks to Nardoo Hut and down Nardoo Creek back to the carpark.
distance | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
55 km loop from/to the Mt Ella Station carpark
time | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
4 days, with 3 nights at Downie, Burn Creek and Nardoo Huts for most trampers
when | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
Best when there are longer and warmer days, ie, the summer months, December to April.
Snow in winter and early spring will make the Emily Peaks section dangerous and very hard work.
maps and GPS | Burn/Nardoo Creek Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
These days, having integrated GPS on your cell phone means a mapping app can precisely locate you on the LINZ Topo250 and Topo50 maps.
There are quite a few choices of topo map apps available, but “NZ Topo50” works well enough and costs $6.99 for each island. You download the 3 GB app for the whole of the South Island plus Stewart Island/Rakiura before leaving home. This app then works for both these islands, away from cell phone towers. (The North Island is a separate $6.99 app.)
Unlike some apps, you don’t have to download numerous smaller “tiles” where, if you change your plans, you can find yourself off the map.
“NZ Topo50” uses the full digital LINZ base map with details of the topography, tracks, contours, huts, roads, etc. You can also record your progress. Users can import .gpx or .kml track files ahead of time to follow pre-planned routes.
Other apps do much more, recording your distance, speed, elevation gain, or loss, etc, but this comes with a significant disadvantage: it is more battery intensive, and your phone won’t last a full day.
Unfortunately, cell phones have three issues.
1. You need to carry a chunky power bank to recharge every day. If you record your route as you go, or forget to put it in flight/aeroplane mode, batteries drain quickly. However, because NZ Topo50 loads the entire map natively, users can turn off the active GPS function entirely and only switch GPS on when needed for brief “spot checks” of their location to save power drain.
2. Phones can be lost, damaged, float away down a river, drain due to the cold, etc.
3. Wet screens or wet fingers often make smartphone touch interfaces completely unusable in rain.
A paper map is useful. On less frequented tracks, prone to windfalls or being overgrown, having a paper map backup is prudent.
A track appears on old maps, but has been removed in recent GPS LINZ paper maps and map apps. There’s no track once above the bushline, and a paper map is great if visibility is poor.
Here’s the track up Burn Creek as once marked, back in the day, ie, 1986. The track up until where you climb up to Jacobs Ladder is pretty well washed out in Burn Creek, but it’s easy enough to smash up the creek bed gravel, crossing as required. A few dozen times. Once up above the Jacobs Ladder bluff, follow the general route as shown here on the 1986 map.
Maps can be found at Land Information New Zealand, LINZ, Topo50 maps, both digital and paper: BS23 Matakitaki and BT23 Lewis Pass.
Download free digital versions from LINZ Mapchooser, or buy the real thing, ie, on old fashioned paper, at DOC offices, outdoor shops and bookshops where maps sold. There’s a nationwide list at LINZ Map Retailers.
Need a custom map for your GPS device, download a more compact .klm format file from topomap.co.nz for free, although if you download a few maps consider a small donation, there’s considerable work gone into getting that info onto the internet and we should support these useful resources.
route description | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
Best to start this loop by going up to Downie Hut and cross the Matakitaki River near the hut, or better, just beyond where Downie Creek joins the Matakitaki. Just above the rapids, the river has a gravel base and is not flowing too swiftly. After heavy rain, this river is dangerous to cross; it can become very big, and then it’s super powerful. You can check the river flow at the Tasman river flow website. This flow is measured some distance downstream but well above Murchison. A flow level of more than 40 m3/s measured at Horse Terrace would be dangerous to cross at Downie.
The once easy walk to Downie Hut in the flat Matakitaki River valley is now more difficult due to lack of track maintenance. Long sections are boggy due to four-wheel drive use, and some trees over the track have not been cleared. Above MacKellar Stream there are two slips across the track, meaning it may be easier to cross the Matakitaki twice before getting to the hut.
Cross the river close to the Downie Hut and head up on the true left side to Burn Creek. It is easier to cross the river there than further up. The walk up Burn Creek to the base of Jacobs Ladder is fairly straightforward. Just cross Burn Creek as required, maybe 20 times. You need to know which steep tributary to climb to get to the start of Jacobs Ladder. It’s very steep and washed out and immediately before the obvious bluffs, just before where Burn Creek enters a gorge. About 80 or 100 m up there are NZFS markers on the true right of the creek, and cairns on the true left. You smash your way up through the regrowth while veering slightly to the right. There are plenty of white permolat markers to show the route up to the base of the rope-assisted climb. The track has been marked with blue plastic markers and generally well cut. These markers are deteriorating in the UV light and will hopefully be soon replaced with more permanent white permolat markers. Stay on the true right of Burn Creek and cross Rough and Tumble Creek. You need to climb above a short gorge before you get to the old gold workings where there are decent campsites.
From the Goldfields Flat, follow up the Burn Creek bed until you get to a small waterfall and then climb up the steep bank on the true right where there are a few markers. These then continue until you get to the open grassy area at the junction of the two big Burn Creek branches. A 9 kg gas bottle marks the point where you can climb down to cross the creek, then climb up adjacent to the waterfall to the top of the flat ridge, ie, only 50 or so metres. An alternative, less perilous route has been marked about 100 m upstream, with the start well marked. Then there’s a well-cut track to the hut. There are quite a few markers, you just need to persevere. Remember the Forest Service dudes who created the track took the most straightforward route.
From Burn Creek Hut you can either go up the valley, where there is a 15 m waterfall to climb around, or up the ridge behind the hut. This heads to the top of Point 1952 although you can sidle around 100 m below to avoid some climbing and descent. From the saddle on the ridge, there is an easy climb to the westernmost Emily Peak, at 2024 m. From there follow down the ridge over to Point 1916 and continue along to Point 1786. Note there are some bluffs to work your way down. You need to get around the unnamed bump, but at the flat saddle before Point 1840, while heading due east you can drop down the slope towards a gut, hanging close to the right as you get towards the cliffs.
This is important. There is a short section immediately above a decent bluff that needs to be traversed. It is damp, but there is flax to hang onto. Once you get past that, it is a straightforward amble down to Nardoo Hut that you should already be able to see next to a tarn.
If you turn off the ridge too soon after Point 1786, it is possible to descend, but this is for goats and other four-legged animals. The creek at the bottom is in a 20 m deep crevice, so you will need to head back upstream on a good deer trail to avoid that obstacle. (How do I know this?) Going down the next slope has a much shorter perilous section.
From the hut it is well marked with poles to get down to the treeline, where the route is also well marked with those orange triangles to where you cross the river after the bend, but may be slow due to windfall and regrowth. From there it is easy enough to smash your way straight down the river bed, crossing about 25 times before it flattens out and it becomes worth getting on the at times overgrown, but well enough marked track that turns into an old four-wheel-drive track. You can cross the Matakitaki River at the farm road bridge if required due to rain.
The signs stating that access is prohibited might scare you, but the manager is reasonable. You could ring them to get prior permission.
huts and campsites | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
There are 3 huts along the route:
Good campsites in both Burn Creek and mid-Nardoo Creek:
Burn Creek goldfields campsite
And a big semi-sheltered tarn up on the Nardoo Tops:
Tramping times | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
Not much DOC info on walking times, at least from Downie Hut to Burn Creek Hut to Nardoo Hut. Yeah, that’s the part you need.
Here’s some allowances you should make. Times for those two middle sections will depend greatly on your trail finding and mountain climbing abilities.
Ella Station DOC carpark to Downie Hut
Time: 6 hours
Distance: 17 km
Downie Hut to Burn Creek Hut
Time: a full day, 7 to 8 hours
Distance: 11 km
Burn Creek Hut to Nardoo Hut
Time: a full day, 6 to 10 hours
Distance: 9 km
Nardoo Hut Hut to Ella Station DOC carpark
Time: 7 hours 30 minutes
Distance: 18 km
getting there | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
There’s no regular public transport anywhere near the Ella Station DOC carpark. This road is quite remote, 38 km from the highway, with half on a gravel road. Possible to hitch out with the hop workers if you want additional walking, but would be hard to get all the way in.
The DOC carpark is close to the bridge over the Matakitaki River that gets to the farmland on the other side.
supplies | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
Nelson, Richmond or Westport have the usual major supermarkets, either Countdown, New World, Pak’nsave, for getting the main supplies. Gas canisters, Shellite or Fuelite for your stove can be obtained at outdoor and hardware stores if you haven’t been allowed to fly with it.
Murchison has a small Four Square supermarket that has most of the basics, open 7 days from 8 30 am weekdays, 9 am weekends.
warnings | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
Yeah, this is a big list. Plenty of peril on offer. It’s not a standard maintained DOC track. The national park is regarding it as a more challenging wilderness-style area than more populated areas further east near the big lakes. It’s very different in facilities, track maintenance, etc.
Don’t attempt this unless you have had some serious off-track experience, because a lot is off-track of a fairly physical type.
Matakitaki River. This is one of the region’s biggest rivers, and can be a major issue to cross after rain. Don’t bother with this route unless the forecast is for good weather. A decent low water crossing point exists close to Downie Hut where there are a number of braids, and a gravel, not bouldery bottom. The only actual bridge is near the Mt Ella Station homestead, a few hundred metres from the car park. Wise to start this tramp via Downie and Burn Creek so you won’t be trapped.
Creek sections. Both Burn Creek and Nardoo Creek require many river crossings, a few dozen each, and there are no swing bridges. It’s a dry weather circuit. Note that these creeks are very steep, and the flow can be stronger than you might imagine. The creeks can go down quickly however. The bottom part of the creeks are relatively easy travel.
Jacobs Ladder. When heading up Burn Creek you need to climb above some bluffs. Immediately before the bluffs climb about 80 m up the steep unnamed creek to the old white NZFSPermolat, (Venetian blind markers), also some mossy cairns on the true left of the watercourse. Then climb up the steep hillside on the true left, following the white permolat markers to a short and steep rope-assisted section. That’s the top.
Officially unmaintained track. In recent years considerable volunteer work has been done on the Burn Creek track to the hut. It’s harder but not impossible to get lost, but it’s no longer a battle through overgrown red beech regeneration. Be careful to pick up the trail when you skirt around windfall. The track was re-marked by Michael Pitchard after the Covid lockdowns with bright blue plastic markers, and the track is mostly fairly obvious. Others have helped cut the track, except for the section between climbing out of Burn Creek and starting the climb to Jacobs Ladder. Hopefully this will be completed in the summer 2026-7.
Crossing Burn Creek gorge. There’s an old 9 kg gas bottle that indicates the climb down to the river at the western end of the clearing above the creek junction. This ain’t for the fainthearted. Climb up to the top of the flat ridge immediately adjacent to the waterfall. Yes, really!! The track up to the hut from the main creek junction is well overgrown. An alternative route has been created that goes up from the creek 100 m, before a steep climb is needed to get up on the ridge.
The Emily Peaks tops route. This climbs up to around 2000 m. It is very exposed to the weather. Can be disorientating when in the clouds. Obviously no markers whatsoever. Few people walk this, but the ridge route is obvious to experienced trail finders. The hard part is getting down through the bluffs near Nardoo Hut.
Climbing exposure. While this route is generally okay for experienced trampers, there are many bluffs, and the possibility of getting into difficulty if you choose your route badly. Note it is difficult to see the best route down from above. There are a few potentially perilous sections of exposure. It is possible to go up Upper Burn Creek to get to the saddle to the south of Emily Peaks, but there is a 15 m waterfall to climb around. Adjacent to the flow, the bedrock is potentially slippery. This valley is a clear avalanche danger in winter/spring. However, the route is more direct than climbing the ridge starting from the hut. On the north side of Emily Peaks follow the steep ridge down to avoid bluffs. Yeah, it’s steep. The route down from the ridge near Point 1652 to Nardoo Hut is not obvious due to bluffs. Two possibilities. The safer option is to continue west past Point 1786 over the next bump, then sidle under Point 1840 to the head of the basin. The shorter, more direct route heading down from the saddle past the unnamed bump leads to a steep gut, with a short section needing to be negotiated above a considerable drop. Sufficient flax to provide an element of support. This would feel very much safer ascending. You can see the hut about 15 minutes away. There are other odd steep bits, including a steep rocky scree slope, that also require negotiation. Experienced trampers will have little issue with the obstacles, but this is no place for the timid. Getting from Burn Creek Hut to Nardoo Hut involves about 1400 m of climbing and descent. It’s a big day out.
Nardoo Creek. The drop down to the creek, and getting around the bend is steep, but mostly well marked. Once around the corner it is quicker to just follow the river bed, rock hopping, and fallen tree avoiding, crossing the creek a couple of dozen times and using the marked track where obvious. Much of the river flats have been severely damaged by recent floods, although there are some good camping places towards the bend. Note there are some massive bluffs where it is required to cross the creek. Towards the bottom it becomes apparent that it is easier to walk on longer stretches in the forest, although often reasonably marked, the regenerating red beech may slow progress.
Winter/spring. With the river crossings and possibilities of snow this is clearly best in the summer/early autumn. There are plenty of areas of steep snow grass where any snow would be potentially slippery. In bad weather: forget it. Upper Burn Creek above the hut is a major avalanche risk during winter and spring.
DOC times. Some of the DOC or published times are optimistic for many. The seven hours from the Matakitaki River crossing up to Nardoo Hut stated on the sign is actual walking time for super experienced and fit trampers, with the creek levels low. Some take ten hours according to the hut book, particularly if carrying a heavy pack. Near the bend there are some areas where the track is hard to follow due to regrowth. That 600 m climb up to Nardoo Hut from the creek is a gut buster.
Finally. This is a route that few people attempt. No one made an entry in the Burn Creek hut book in 2018. There was a four-year vacancy from 2002 – 2006. The route in Burn Creek is a serious challenge to follow. The Matakitaki River is one of the biggest in the region and is usually a task to cross.
And yeah, having negotiated this loop successfully you may well look as if you have been trapped in a cage with feral cats for a number of days considering the lacerations on your arms and legs. This is not a route for the inexperienced.
other websites | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
DOC has nothing.
a big image slideshow | Burn/Nardoo Loop, Nelson Lakes National Park
Images of the Burn/Nardoo Loop huts and campsites can be found in the Nelson Lakes National Park huts.
Here’s a 50 image slideshow from Burn/Nardoo Loop giving an indication of the general track conditions and sights along the way, if you need any further convincing.
Click on the thumbnail image below to get the slideshow started, then you can click on the left or right sides of the bigger images to go forward or back.
